Facelift XJ X350 на X358 от 2008-2009 г.

Тема в разделе 'Разное', создана пользователем Xyclon, 20 сен 2009.

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    Xyclon

    Xyclon Новый пользователь

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    Статья пока на англ. яз, потом подправлю и сделаю ссылки на автора:D

    Что было:
    [​IMG]

    Чего стало:
    [​IMG]
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    Xyclon

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    Ответ: Facelift XJ X350 2008 г.

    Список запчастей для полного фейслифта 2008 г.:
    Кол- во P/N (2 части) Название стоимость
    1 EA C2C 35428 XXX Rear bumper cover - 4.2L SC 523.78
    1 EA C2C 38950 Bracket - rear bumper - LH 11.30
    1 EA C2C 38881 Bracket - rear bumper - RH 11.30
    1 EA C2C 35409 Foam insert - rear bumper - RH 48.80
    1 EA C2C 35410 Foam insert - rear bumper - LH 48.80
    2 EA XR8 44419 Spring nut 0.49
    4 EA XR8 2059 Bolt - M6 x 16mm 1.10
    2 EA C2P 3479 Self tapping screw 0.57
    2 EA C2C 14445 Push on clip 0.83
    2 EA C2S 9354 Blind rivet 0.49
    4 EA C2C 35071 M6 spring nut 0.49
    1 EA C2C 40262 XXX Trunk number plate infill panel 119.20
    4 EA XR8 12219 Hexagonal nut 0.83
    14 EA C2C 22894 Retaining clip 0.83
    1 EA C2C 24495 Trunk lid seal 47.27
    1 EA C2C 29016 Trunk lid finisher 162.08
    1 EA C2C 38928 XJ badge for trunk lid 19.12
    1 EA C2C 36638 XXX Front bumper cover 523.78
    1 EA C2C 36654 Number plate plinth - UK - large rect 13.45
    1 EA C2C 35402 Front bumper mounting bracket - LH 30.16
    1 EA C2C 35401 Front bumper mounting bracket - RH 30.16
    1 EA C2C 36657 Cover - front bumper - foglamps - LH 33.90
    1 EA C2C 36655 Cover - front bumper - foglamps - RH 33.90
    1 EA C2C 35762 Valance panel - front bumper 115.00
    8 EA C2C 3563 Bolt - valance to bumper 0.49
    1 EA C2C 36660 Foam insert - front bumper - LH 48.80
    1 EA C2C 36659 Foam insert - front bumper - RH 48.80
    1 EA C2C 35430 Lower grille mesh - chrome 45.20
    1 EA C2C 36652 Fog lamp bracket - LH 5.66
    1 EA C2C 38847 Fog lamp bracket - RH 5.66
    10 EA C2C 3910 Fir tree clip 0.34
    2 EA XR8 37532 Front fog lamp 60.70
    2 EA XR8 46154 Plastic nut 1.16
    1 EA C2C 31205 XXX Fender/front wing - LH 305.18
    1 EA C2C 31204 XXX Fender/front wing - RH 305.18
    2 EA C2C 35382 Reflector - LH Front/RH Rear fender 12.37
    2 EA C2C 35381 Reflector - RH Front/LH Rear fender 12.37
    1 EA C2C 36650 Powerwash hose 60.54
    2 EA C2C 37133 XXX Housing - headlamp washer jet upper LH 6.78
    2 EA C2C 37132 XXX Housing - headlamp washer jet upper RH 6.78
    1 EA C2C 39311 Bumper harness - front 22.83
    4 EA C2C 3266 Bolt - M6 x 20mm 0.49
    1 EA C2C 33838 XXX Body side moulding - SWB - RH 90.37
    1 EA C2C 33840 XXX Body side moulding - SWB - LH 107.11
    1 EA C2C 37109 Door mirror - powerfold - RHD - LH 270.30
    1 EA C2C 37107 Door mirror - powerfold - RHD - RH 270.30
    1 EA C2C 37115 XXX Mirror backcover - LH - primer 73.28
    1 EA C2C 39492 XXX Mirror backcover - RH - primer 69.62
    1 EA C2C 37096 Mirror - e/chromatic - w/o warning - LH 73.28
    1 EA C2C 37095 Mirror - e/chromatic - w/o warning - RH 73.28
    1 EA C2C 36778 XXX Radiator grille surround - primer 42.63
    1 EA C2C 36782 Radiator grille mesh - LH - chrome 28.32
    1 EA C2C 36780 Radiator grille mesh - RH - chrome 28.32
    1 EA C2C 36779 Radiator grille stiffener 8.90
    1 EA C2C 36787 Radiator grille air duct - LH 14.58
    1 EA C2C 36786 Radiator grille air duct - RH 14.58
    1 EA C2C 36785 Grille moulding - LH 12.40
    1 EA C2C 36784 Grille moulding - RH 12.40
    1 EA C2C 38927 Radiator grille badge 23.43
    8 EA C2C 36788 Rubber buffer 0.38
    1 EA C2C 33753 Side vent finisher - galvano - LH 50.30
    1 EA C2C 39341 Side vent finisher - galvano - RH 50.30
    1 EA C2C 36991 Wheel arch liner - RH 72.51
    1 EA C2C 36992 Wheel arch liner - LH 72.51
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    Xyclon

    Xyclon Новый пользователь

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    Ответ: Facelift XJ X350 2008 г.

    Парочка деталей....

    [​IMG]
    Передний бампер уже в сборе

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
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    Xyclon

    Xyclon Новый пользователь

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    Ответ: Facelift XJ X350 2008 г.

    Делаем зад
    Для этого надо:
    1 EA C2C 35428 Rear bumper cover - 4.2L SC
    1 EA C2C 38950 Bracket - rear bumper - LH
    1 EA C2C 38881 Bracket - rear bumper - RH
    1 EA C2C 35409 Foam insert - rear bumper - RH
    1 EA C2C 35410 Foam insert - rear bumper - LH
    2 EA XR8 44419 Spring nut
    4 EA XR8 2059 Bolt - M6 x 16mm
    2 EA C2P 3479 Self tapping screw
    2 EA C2C 14445 Push on clip
    2 EA C2S 9354 Blind rivet
    4 EA C2C 35071 M6 spring nut
    1 EA C2C 40262 Trunk number plate infill panel
    4 EA XR8 12219 Hexagonal nut
    14 EA C2C 22894 Retaining clip
    1 EA C2C 29016 Trunk lid finisherF‏irst you remove the existing trunk infill panel so your trunk lid looks like this:
    [​IMG]

    It is fairly easy to remove, you need a 10mm socket for most of the nuts and a small phillips screwdriver (size 1) to remove the existing trunk open button. The button gets reused so there is no need to disconnect it, just remove it from the panel.

    Remove the trunk lid carpet using a fork or trim removal tool to release the fir tree clips. Remove the grab handle from the car-front-facing side first then it will pull out. You don't need to touch the latch or the plastic cover.

    [​IMG]

    There are six 10mm nuts holding the trunk lid finisher on (the chrome/painted strip with JAGUAR written on it). They are easy to spot because the inside of the trunk lid has big holes cut in it for you to access them (green arrows). While you are here carefully bend back the tab (pink arrow) to allow the new finisher to fit properly.

    [​IMG]

    Once they are removed the whole panel and the finisher are only held on with two firm push clips on either side (green arrows) and a number of looser push clips around the side and bottom edges (pink arrows). I suggest starting by freeing up the top edge which will be pressure-bonded with the foam behind, then go from one top corner around the bottom and to the other side, carefully popping out each clip until the panel is free. Unscrew the two small phillips screws holding the button in place and use a small screwdriver to carefully prise the wire clip from the back of the number plate lamps.

    Now the panel is removed from the car carefully transfer the number plate lamps to the new panel. Remove and refit the bolts from the back of the finisher and then clip it firmly to the new panel. Use a small knife to carefully push or trim back any foam that extends past the top of the new finisher or it will be visible when fitted. Remove and refit the foam strip (blue arrow above), using some double sided tape. Remove the red sticky tab covers along the top outer edges. Offer the panel to the car and refit the lamps and button, making sure the wires are taped securely out of the way.

    Note: Unless you are eight feet tall it may be helpful to have someone hold the trunk lid in a half-open position while refitting the infil panel.

    Starting at either bottom corner line up the push clips and when level line up one side and with a carefull thump clip the main green/central clip into position. Then repeat for the opposite side, and finally push in all the other clips. The bolts you inserted into the finisher should all be through the holes and accessible inside the trunk again. Refit the 10mm nuts to those bolts and you can refit the carpet. The trunk lid is now complete! The photo below shows the result with the old bumper still fitted. Note the closing gap is not aligned properly because the battery was disconnected so the trunk does not shut properly.

    [​IMG]

    Now for the rear bumper. If you have removed a modern plastic bumper from any car then you should be fine with this. Jack the car up and put it on stands. Do not even think about working under a car still on a jack -- I have seen one 'burst' and you do not want a car coming down on you when that happens.

    To start with you need to remove lots of interior trim. I can't provide photos for this because I had already done it some time ago. Remove both side and the base carpets from the trunk. Remove the black plastic 'internal bumper'. This will expose four 10mm bolts that are holding the top of the bumper in place (pink arrows below showing two).

    [​IMG]

    Now get under the car and remove the four push rivets along the rear lower edge. They are soft plastic so to remove carefully unscrew the head until it is about 5mm out then they should just pop out with your fingers. Remove the single T25/27 bolt on each side holding the bumper to the bracket behind each wheel.

    Unplug the rear bumper electrical harness connector. This is located on the main cabin/body harness near to where the emergency fuel flap release level is, but on the other side of the REM/ECU. It is grey in colour, and is the only in-line harness connector around that area. It can be disconnected with the battery still connected without causing damage. Ensure the wires are free to be extracted later without catching on other wiring.

    The bumper is now only held in place by the top outer edges being sandwiched between a hidden bracket and the bottom of the rear quarter panels. Unlike the fronts they are not attached to the wheel arch liners. Put down a blanket under the bumper if you want to keep it and starting on one side only put your fingers behind the very top front-facing corner and pull outwards (90 degrees from the car) firmly and sharply. You may need to use a lot of force, but should not be able to damage anything in the process. Once part of the 'sandwich' has given way it will be easy to lift the rest of the side clear of the car. Once free, repeat for the opposite side. Note that it will suddenly drop when you release the other side so be prepared to catch it. Once free of the car remove the rubber gromet where the bumper harness enters the car on the RH side and feed the wiring you disconnected earlier through the hole. Put it all to one side.
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    Xyclon

    Xyclon Новый пользователь

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    Ответ: Facelift XJ X350 2008 г.

    .

    [​IMG]

    You need to replace the black plastic brackets (above) that sandwiched the bumper against the car body. These are held on with 10mm bolts with captive washers and two T25/27 bolts on each side through the wheel arch liners. Remove and discard the brackets.

    Refit the new brackets. Pay careful attention to getting the top edge evenly spaced from the lower lip of the rear quarter panel or the new bumper will sit with an uneven gap. You can only really get this right through trial-and-error (it took me two attempts as you will see in a later photo). Do not overtighten the bolts as you are screwing into weak alloy. Finger tight is fine.

    [​IMG]

    Above is a new bracket being fitted. Note how they have an extension (pink arrow), this is because the new bumper is deeper than the old style, so it fills the gap.

    Now fit the new foams to the new bumper. Carefully remove and refit the parking sensors (be sure to wipe any grit from them before refitting) and the wiring harness. Note that the foams in the new bumper don't clip in place as they do on the old, so you will need to line it up and hold it in place by hand until offered to the car (the exhaust pipe gaps make this easy to do).

    Fit the four retaining bolt clips to the inside upper rear edge of the bumper. Refer to the old bumper for the locations. These will line up with the four bolts you removed from inside the car.

    Fitting the bumper is the reverse of the removal. Offer it into roughly the right place and work on one side at a time, forcing the top lip back into the sandwich. Make sure you cover the side you are not working on with a cloth to stop it scratching the car body while it is moving around. There is no easy way to explain how to get the bumper back into the sandwich properly, and it is tricky, so just try it. If it is not aligned correctly then the black brackets behind need to be adjusted up or down accordingly. Once it is refitted the gaps should be a uniform 2-3mm between the bumper and the car body - if not remove it, adjust the brackets, and try again. Repeat for the other side.

    Note: Always use new bolts and screws when refitting bumpers, mud flaps, undertrays, etc. They are only designed to be used once and reusing them WILL mean they will be rusted solid the next time anyone wants to remove them. Do not ruin expensive panels and undertrays for the sake of a 20p bolt. (And that goes to main dealers too -- who consistently ignore that advice and ruin thousands of pounds worth of panels every year, usually at their customer's expense.)

    Refit the single screw underneath at the front edge on both sides. You will notice that the rear push-fit screws can no longer be used as the two fixing points on the new bumper are 50mm lower and offset from the originals (photo below)

    [​IMG]

    You need to make up your own fixing for this. I would suggest screwing a plastic or wooden bracket to the original mounting points on the chassis and then screw the new bumper into this through the provided holes. If you use wood, make sure it is protected from the elements. A cedar batton would be ideal and will easily last the lifetime of the car.

    Now refit the four 10mm bolts inside the car that hold the top rear of the bumper in place. Fit the new reflectors into the bumper (attaching the lamps if fitted). From underneath the car refit the rubber gromet from the wiring harness, clip the loose wire to the underside of the metal bracing (you will see what I mean) and then plug it back in to the body harness inside the car. Finally, refit all the interior trim.

    Job complete. [​IMG] Here are some photos of the end result, including one of the side. (Note that the front NS door has been painted but not polished in yet and the wing is to be replaced so the break is quite visible.)

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
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    Xyclon

    Xyclon Новый пользователь

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    Ответ: Facelift XJ X350 2008 г.

    Делаем перед:
    I have now fitted the front bumper and wings. Here's the walkthrough:

    Removing the front bumper is nice and easy, provided the bolts haven't rusted. If they have siezed into the captive spring nuts then the easiest option is to use a 22mm diamon core drill to just cut aorund it. You will destroy the undertray, but you need a new one for the facelift bumper anyway so it's not a big loss, and it avoids damaging the bumper itself.

    Start by loosening the wheel nuts on the front wheels. (Normally when removing the bumper it can be done with the front road wheels in-situ but we need to replace the wheel arch liners as the old ones do not meet the new style bumper correctly.)

    Jack the car up and put it on axle stands. Only the front of the car needs to be raised to give enough access to remove the side cills (if you are changing the wings only). Again don't even think about working under a jacked car.

    I haven't got a photo of the undertray showing the fixing positions because it was too close to the ground to get a decent angle with my camera, but they are easy to locate. There are a handful of T27 bolts along the front and sides where it joins the bumper and the wheel arch liners, and three 10mm bolts where it attaches to the engine undertray. Once the undertray is loose leave it fitted as it is still held in place by the bumper cover along the front edge and is easier to remove at the same time.

    Open the bonnet/hood and remove the plastic radiator/headlamp cover. It is held on with six turn/pull connectors. Just unwind by hand like a screw and then lift out. Then remove the two T27 screws holding the front upper grille in place. Remove the black plastic air guides from either side that were screwed down and carefully lift the rubber at the bottom of the grille halfs to expose the three plastic legs that hook through the bumper and attach to the car. The outer two are held with a simple 'peg in hole' clip, and the centre one is just slid through. Use a short, small flat screwdriver to lever the top of the clip up enough to slide the leg out slightly. Once both sides are released slide the whole grill out to remove it.

    The bumper is hung onto the top of the headlamps, release those fittings but don't 'unhang' the bumper just yet. Remove the T25 bolts holding the front of the wheel arch liners to the bumper and the undertray. There are four to remove - three inside the wheel arch and one underneath. The front bumper is now only held in place by the same sort of 'sandwich' fitting as the rear bumper was. To remove, insert your fingers behind the top outer edges above the reflectors/side lamps and pull outwards and forwards. Release the right hand side first, then the left hand side. The bumper will fall so have someone catch it or use a blanket on the ground. The right hand side will be attached by the wiring harness so it will swing close to the car. On pre-2006 facelift vehicles the powerwash hose is also connected on the right hand side, on later cars it will be on the left. The wiring needs to be unplugged and the hose disconnected from the powerwash pump. The pump is attached to the base of the washer bottle which on earlier cars will now be accessible, but on post-2006 vehicles you need to now remove the left hand wheel arch liner (see photo below).

    The entire front bumper and all attached ancillaries, including the wiring and hoses, are now obsolete so place them to one side.

    This photo shows a pre-2006 car with the bumper and undertray removed. You can just see the bumper wiring harness connector to the left of the washer bottle.

    [​IMG]

    The following two photos are to give an overview of how the sides look with the wheel arch liners and wing removed. The blue circles show the two 'hanging' fixings for the wheel arch liner (on both sides). Once you remove all the push clips you need to loosen the nuts in these two locations in order to 'unhang' the liner. The pink arrow shows the powerwash pump on a pre-2006 car.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Note for pre-2006 cars only... you will need to replace the powerwash pump with one from a 2006 or later car (or new) as the hose diameter has changed. It can still be fitted to the existing washer bottle.

    Use a fork or trim removal tool to remove all the fixings from the side cills. You already removed the front two when you removed the wheel arch liners but they are all along the bottom at 300mm centres. Open the front door on each side and remove the two philips screws on the cill and starting at the back end just pull it off.

    Remove the front bumper plastic brackets. You will reuse these.

    Now you need to remove the wings. They are held on with 10x 10mm bolts on each side, in the locations indicated below.
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    Xyclon

    Xyclon Новый пользователь

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    Ответ: Facelift XJ X350 2008 г.

    .

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    The two along the door jamb area are on the inside of the wing, and you need to remove the foam padding shown below to access them. All others are visible.

    [​IMG]

    After removing all the bolts carefully remove the side repeater lense and disconnect the wiring harness. Open the front doors to their half-way stop and carefully pull the wing off of the car. Note: there is a small rubber piece at the top by the windscreen that is clipped on but it will come off with a firm pull. If the clip stays attached to the wing remove it and reuse it on the new wing. The LH wing also mounts the horns so they will need to be released as shown below. (The blue line shows the air suspension compressor, in case anyone wonders how to access it for replacement -- a common fault.)

    [​IMG]

    You need to cut the side repeater connectors off of the wiring harness and extend the wiring for later connection to the wing mirrors. Cut close to the connector and separate out about 40mm of wire, strip the insulation off to about 15mm depth and extend with new wires by twisting the ends together and using a heat shrink sleve with a captive solder ring. If these are unavailable you can just use a soldering iron. In all cases further encapsulate each joint independantly using heat shrink sleeving with a resin/glue inner to create a moisture and oil resistant joint. Extend each wire by 1 metre initially, and tape around the loose wires to hold them together along their length.

    There is a convieniently placed rubber grommet that allows access directly into the lower A pillar where the front door wiring goes through into the body. This is ideal as it is exactly where we want to route the new wires, so remove the grommet, make a small hole in it and thread the new wiring through it and refit to the car as shown below.

    [​IMG]

    Now it is time to start rebuilding. Fitting the new wings in the reverse of removal. Refit the rubber seal to the top of the wing using the original clip, and ensure the clip between the seal and the car body is reinserted into the rubber seal ready to be pushed home after fitting. Don't worry about the plastic aligning plug on the cowl trim, it will find home on its own.

    Note: the wings require alignment. There are exact tolerances for panel alignment between the wing and the bonnet/hood, bumper and the front doors. Don't worry too much about tolerance measurements to start with, the critical part is getting the body lines aligned correctly. When looking down the vehicle the wing must sit correctly with the flow of the car. Refer to the following photo:

    [​IMG]

    Start by aligning the rear of the wing with the door/body, then focus on the front most top bolt. Then fix the middle top bolt. Keep closing the bonnet/hood to get the gap an even 3.5mm +/- 1.0mm all the way down.

    Never tighten up the bolts fully until the alignment is ok, and do not assume that bolts need to go through the holes centrally or even in the same offsets as the old wing. This process can be time consuming but it should be within most people's skill if they got this far. If you are having difficulty just fix the wing as close as you can get it and then take it to a jag-certified category A bodyshop after fitting everything back and they can align it for you.

    Once the wings are bolted on, refit the foam inside the wings. Refit the horns on the LH side. Refit the black plastic bumper brackets.

    The new front bumper should have all the ancillaries fitted before bringing to the car. This includes the fogs, lower grill, foams, wiring and powerwash hose/jets if necessary. Refitting is the reverse of removal. Start by hang the bumper off the headlamps by fully connecting the innermost fixings (leave the outers loose), then pop each side in. Reconnect the bumper harness and the powerwash hose to the pump. (Remember the pump needs to be changed on earlier vehicles.) Once happy it is aligned correctly push in the remaining top fixings. If it needs relaignment take it off and adjust the black plastic brackets to suit.

    Refit the new wheel arch liners, and then fit the new cills. (I haven't got my cills back from painting yet so I have left them off for now.)

    Underneath the car, fit the new undertray. It clips under the front edge of the bumper so get that side attached first, then use the bolts on the rear.

    Finally clip the wing power vents into place and you are finished!

    I don't have any good photos yet until I get the new cills fitted, but here is a before and after shot:

    Before:
    [​IMG]

    After:
    [​IMG]

    Next I will be fitting the wing mirrors...
  8. sanches500

    sanches500 Очень активный пользователь

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    Ответ: Facelift XJ X350 2008 г.

    круто!!!! ваабсче!!!!!

    мне 350 после рестайлинга больше нравятся!

    Циклон, а ты где эту инфу берешь? на английских форумах сидишь?

    очень занимательно!!!!!! )))
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    Xyclon

    Xyclon Новый пользователь

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    Ответ: Facelift XJ X350 2008 г.

    Инфу по дооснащениею взял с англ. энтузиаста с форума :)
    Ссылку на автора обязательно добавлю :)
    А все остальное, тут, там, да из головы :D
  10. vvvM3

    vvvM3 Mr. President Команда форума Президент клуба

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    Ответ: Facelift XJ X350 2008 г.

    Ну и головаааа!!! :))) Ох уж эти питерские головы! Может избрать тебя мозговым центром нашенского клуба?
    Восхищаюсь!
  11. Fair

    Fair Новый пользователь

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    Does anyone mind if I include this article on the X350 to X358 facelift on a British website?
  12. Ильюха

    Ильюха Постоянный участник

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    Город:
    Москва
    Автомобиль:
    S-Type
    Комплектация а/м:
    седан-баклажан
    Год а/м::
    2007
    Hi.)
    You can do any copy and translate it into English. No one is against. All information posted to help fans of the Jaguar.
  13. Ильюха

    Ильюха Постоянный участник

    Сообщения:
    11.566
    Симпатии:
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    Антипатий:
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    Адрес:
    Новая Москва
    Город:
    Москва
    Автомобиль:
    S-Type
    Комплектация а/м:
    седан-баклажан
    Год а/м::
    2007
    By the way... Our guys are going to London this year. You can join to get to know them.;)
    Glade и Voodoooo нравится это.
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